Where To Buy Flim For A Folding Camera

Like many who make the choice to return to pic from digital, I soon decided to switch from 35mm to medium format. Many others have made this switch every bit well, pushing the price of quality medium format cameras such as the Plaubel Makina 67, Mamiya 7 and Voigtlander Bessa Iii into the stratosphere. For this reason I've sought alternatives to those well-nigh popular cameras. And I've found the answer in folding medium format cameras from the gilded era of motion picture photography. And 1 in item, the Franka Solida Ii-R, has made an impression.

The Franka Solida Two-R is a gorgeously styled 120 folding photographic camera, very typical of the mass-market cameras produced in Germany in the 1950s. Despite the advanced historic period, these cameras are still perfectly operational and capable of producing scanned images well over 100MB in size. Best of all, this powerful image-making tool folds upwardly to a fraction of the size of a DSLR (130 x 103 x 40mm or 5½ 10 three¾ x 1¾ inches) hands plumbing fixtures in a small bag or large coat pocket. It too weighs merely538 grams (19 ounces).

Information technology's non a famous camera, nor one which is sought after by new or old film shooters alike. Information technology lacks the name recognition of more than popular similar cameras, like the Zeiss Ikonta or Voigtlander Bessa, just it'due south just every bit good, but too made, and with fine lenses. The Franka Solida 2-R is a very capable photographic camera that tin can be bought for relatively cheap, and it's a nifty camera for those thinking of making the movement to shooting 120 film.

This article is the offset in a series I will be publishing outlining 120 folding cameras from the 1950s that I ain, in which I volition give detailed tips on shooting them, information that is often difficult to notice. Hopefully, these articles volition provide inspiration and useful communication most shooting these gorgeous instruments from the Machine Age.

Franka Solida II cameras being assembled in the Franka-Werk mill in Bayreuth, Germany 1958

Franka-Werk Solida Cameras

The genesis of the Franka Solida camera story begins in 1909 when Franz "Frank" Vyskocil and his wife moved their business from Stuttgart to the town of Bayreuth in the Black Woods region of Bavaria. During the 1950s the factory was doubled in size, and two thirds of the cameras produced were exported all over the world. From 1957 to 1961 a full of 96,000 35mm cameras were produced. In 1958 the company achieved its highest numbers with 154 employees and 650,000 cameras manufactured per year, making it the biggest camera factory in the Bavarian region of Oberfranken (Upper Frankonia).

Many of the cameras produced past the visitor were OEM, meaning they were rebranded for mail order companies such as Wenz and Klingel, Kaufhof and Sears, or photo retailers such equally Birnbaum and Porst. Franka and Balda were probably the top two OEM manufacturers in Germany during the 1950s. Montgomery Wards and Sears were the main importers of Franka cameras in the United States and featured them in their catalogues.

Franka beginning released the Solida, a 6×6 folding camera using 120 movie in 1936. This photographic camera continued to exist produced until 1962. The Franka Solida in its various models epitomised the type of consumer-grade 120 folding cameras that were popular during the 1950s. The majority of Franka's cameras were mid-range cameras, but contrary to their consumer-level condition, they were well-designed, featured good quality lenses and shutters, and were manufactured with German attention to detail. Franka's competitors were Voigtlander'due south Perkeo, Agfa's Isolette and of course the famed Zeiss Ikonta series.

During the height of their production in the 1950s the Franka Solida came in a dizzying assortment of models, with a diverseness of lens, shutter, rangefinder and light meter options including the Solida I, Solida Two, Solida III, Solida Junior and Solida Record. The Solida Models were designated E or R for Rangefinder/Entfernungsmesser, and L for BeLichtungsmesser (High german for Lightmeter). Only two models had rangefinders, Solida IIIe with a coupled rangefinder, and the Solida II-R (II-Eastward) with an uncoupled rangefinder. The Solida III is a vertical folding camera, the other Solida versions are horizontal folders. The Solida IIIe is a sought-later camera nowadays; but the very pinnacle of Franka's cameras was the Solida 2 EL (RL) which is extremely rare, being produced for less than ane year.

The cheaper lenses were Frankar, Westar and Cassar (fabricated by Steiner-Optik GmbH, which for a time operating within the same edifice as Franka), Isconar (fabricated by Isco Göttingen, a division of Schneider-Kreuznach), and Ennagon (fabricated by Enna-Werk). The best quality lenses were the Trinar (a triplet made by Rodenstock), Radionar (a superb triplet made by Schneider-Kreuznach), and the lens mounted in my camera, the Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar, a four-elements in 3-groups Tessar blueprint lens.

Specifications of the Franka Solida 2-R (Two-E) *1959

• • Manufacturer – Franka-Kamerawerk Bayreuth, Frg
  • Release Year – 1955 – 1959
  • Film – 120 rollfilm
  • Exposures – 12 shots vi×6; 16 shots four×4
  • Format – 60x60mm (6×half dozen) and 40x40mm (iv×4)
  • Motion picture advance – Rewind knob and reddish window, double exposure prevention
  • Cloth – Aluminum and steel body, leather coated
  • Shutter – 8 speed Prontor SVS (VXM) by Alfred Gauthier G.M.B.H.
  • Speeds – B, ane, 1/4, 1/8, 1/xv, i/30, i/60, 1/125, 1/300
  • Aperture – f/three.five – f/22 with 10 aperture blades
  • Lens – Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar 80mm f/3.five № 5593127 (April 1959)
  • Lens Blanket – Single Coated
  • Filterand Hood– 32mm push on
  • Focus Range – 1.06m (3.5 anxiety) to infinity
  • Focusing Method – Uncoupled rangefinder, front focusing
  • Light Meter – Auxiliary hot-shoe mounted light meter
  • Viewfinder – Galilean half dozen×6 with 4×4 mask
  • Self-timer – 8 Seconds (Utilize V on the VXM shutter setting *)
  • Frame Counter – Manual, set sequential formula and cherry-red window
  • Tripod Socket – United kingdom of great britain and northern ireland/USA standard
  • Moving-picture show Advance – Manual knob winder
  • ASA – 25 to 500
  • Battery – Not applicable
  • Size Fifty x H 10 Due west – 130 ten 103 10 40mm (v½ x 3¾ x one¾ inches)
  • Weight – 538 grams (19 ounces)
  • Original Price – 118 DM ; $24.95 USD ; £xxx.12.6

* Intendance should be taken to avoid using the V setting on the shutter as a Cocky-Timer

My camera is the Solida II-R with the Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar lens. This is non the height of the range in the Franka series, the about usually available being the Solida IIIe which has the superb Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar lens; so why did I choose it?

Three features really fix my photographic camera apart from the Solida IIIe. Starting time, information technology's a horizontal folder, a camera blazon which is easier to shoot because information technology provides a better grip than vertical folders. Second, it is the dual-format variant which has the option of shooting sixteen four×four shots on 120 flick. Most people nowadays accept no thought what that is, but in the belatedly 1950s the 4×4 format was popular because it was the elevation of the Super-Slide craze. Super-Slides fit in a normal 35mm slide mount but offer an 85% larger paradigm size and produce drastically ameliorate images when projected. I take a projection which I plan to shoot Super-Slides and mountain them for project. Finally, this camera came with my favourite lens, the Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar, a 4-element Tessar fashion lens which I have in 50mm. Y'all can read my detailed review of that lens here.

Shooting the Franka Solida Ii-R

As already mentioned, a whole new generation of photographers are getting into medium format photography, and every bit loftier-end cameras grow increasingly expensive vintage 120 folders offer a cheaper manner to go started. If you're looking to enter the world of medium format photography for just a little coin, this next section may be of employ. Purists and camera collectors can skip past this, merely hither's my guide to shooting older 120 folding cameras for those who accept never done so. This relates specifically to the Franka Solida II-R, but the tips and techniques apply more often than not to all 120 folders.

Firstly, the technology and a lot of the design of 1950s 120 folders predates WWII, that is because camera production in Deutschland didn't actually get back into product until 1948 and information technology was cheaper for German language camera manufacturers to utilize existing designs and parts. Anyone built-in later on 1980 grew up in a world of auto-focus cameras, and to shoot a 120 folder you need to acquire skills that were second nature to generations of photographers, just nowadays may seem cabalistic. However, with a little practice these skills can quickly exist picked up, and this combined with the slower and more measured step of shooting with a fully mechanical camera volition actually help improve your photography.

The larger medium format negatives and classic vintage lenses provide a greater depth of field and display more character than 35mm film photography. A serviced vintage 120 folder and modern film can make images every bit large in megapixel equivalent as mod digital cameras, which likewise results in stunning prints.All-time of all, shooting a vintage camera is dandy for street photography – people are fascinated past them and notice them non-threatening.

Loading the Film – Load film in subdued light. This is all-time washed at home, but when out and about exercise it in a shaded spot. First, open the rear pic dorsum by pushing the movie latch on the left upwards. Have the empty film spool loaded on the right, and the new picture show roll on the left. The flick spool and take upwardly spool are mounted in ingenious hinged housings which pop out to make loading easier. The empty picture spool housing on the right is opened by lifting the picture show winding dial upwards.

One time the new motion-picture show is loaded go on a finger on it to cease the motion picture from unrolling, which can crusade the edges of the flick to be exposed. Transfer the film leader into the takeup spool and gently wind on until you meet the get-go arrow on the motion picture's bankroll paper. A nice characteristic of the Solida is that the film pressure level plate is 80×80 mm, significantly larger than the 60×60 frame size, which helps go along the film nicely flat.

One time the motion picture is loaded onto the take-up spool, close the dorsum and then open the red window on the rear of the camera, advancing the flick counter clockwise until the number one appears in the cerise window. My model has two ruddy windows, 1 for 6×six shots, and one for 4×iv shots. If shooting half dozen×6, the 4×iv internal mask must exist removed. Close the red window equally quickly every bit possible as the open up red windows can fog modern fast films.

Opening & Closing the Lens – The photographic camera has a downwards-folding horizontal panel on the front which is unlocked by depressing a small-scale push at top left side (from lensman's perspective). When pressed, this button will crusade the lens to pop out quite vigorously, and care must be taken to ensure that y'all hold the lens panel and open up information technology gently. In one case you lot have taken your shot the lens console can be folded dorsum past depressing the small bar located nether the front of the lens. Beware that with the majority of 120 folders it is imperative that you set the focus to infinity before closing or you volition damage the lens panel mechanism.

Controls -The "controls" as there are called on a modern digital camera are all transmission here, and this is where some skill volition come in, learning the techniques that control light and exposure. All of the controls are on the front end of the lens, apart from distance, which is established past the rangefinder and so set on the lens.

• • Focus is set past rotating the front of the lens, later establishing distance by using the rangefinder
  • Shutter speed is adjusted past rotated the large silver dial with the knurled edge
  • Aperture is set by moving the pocket-sized silver lever on the top of the lens mountain
  • Shutter is cocked by moving the small-scale button on the top of the camera to the right

Prontor SVS Shutter– The lens is mounted on a Prontor SVS shutter with speeds from 1 second to i/300th of a second using the old shutter speeds ranging from B (Seedling) 1, 2, 4, 8, 15, xxx, 60, 125, and 300. The shutter needs to be cocked earlier exposure and irresolute to the highest speed. The Prontor SVS was a very proficient shutter, but below the Synchro-Compur in capability and has the capacity for flash synchronisation with either flash bulbs or electronic wink. There is also a PC-sync terminal on the lens. In that location is a secondary cablevision release socket on the correct hand side of the lens which can be used for a shutter release cable or auxiliary self-timer.

Coupled EV/LV System– The coupled EV (Exposure Value) LVS (Light Value Scale) organisation is probably the function of vintage 120 folders that younger people may struggle with, but in actuality information technology'due south a clever and easy-to-use system. During the 1950s, several camera manufacturers adopted this system, which cantankerous coupled aperture and shutter speeds into a single number. The dazzler of the system is that a number of combinations tin be selected to give the same effective LV exposure. However, since its introduction the system has polarised photographers, who either love or despise it.

With an EV shutter, the shutter speed and aperture rings are linked together. You take a light meter reading, set that on the EV punch on the shutter, then because the shutter speeds and aperture are interlinked motility of either corresponds in a motion of both. This is to allow you to adjust the shutter speed or aperture without worrying virtually maintaining the set exposure. At that place are a total of 16 EV settings from 2 to 18. This is a really useful function and I like it, as it operates similar a primitive aperture priority mechanism which is the way I prefer to shoot. However, this feature is not for anybody because information technology limits the independent movements of both the discontinuity and shutter dials.

Shutter VXM setting – X/M are wink sync modes, with X being for electronic flashes and 1000 for wink bulbs. The Five position stands for Vorlaufwerk which is High german for "delay mechanism". This is a primitive "selfie" setting which immune a lensman in the 1950s to exist included in family photos. Later the camera was set on a tripod or tabletop and EV exposure and focus set, the shutter was cocked, the lever set to V, and the shutter button pressed. This gave the photographer 8 seconds to get into the shot. Nevertheless, I wouldn't use "V" (cocky-timer) every bit the mechanism is delicate and decumbent to failure, and repairing a shutter means paying an expert. If you do desire to have selfies the easiest method is to buy an auxiliary self-timer which screws into a socket on the front of the lens, or the shutter release button of most 120 folders.

Rangefinder – The but small inferiority of my camera versus the Solida IIIe is that the rangefinder is uncoupled, which means that when you use the rangefinder it gives a distance reading on the round dial on summit, which must so be used to set the distance on the front of the lens manually. I have had many 120 folders with no rangefinder, and I have two auxiliary meters (Super-Watameter in meters, Pullin Optics in anxiety) so I don't discover this to be a major drawback.

Snapshot Shooting method – The Franka Solida, like most cameras of this era, has a Snapshot setting which allows the states to quickly zone focus the camera. Selecting the crimson "8" on the focus dial volition give you adequate depth of field at f/xi from about 6 to 10 feet (2.5m), ideal for portraits. The ruddy dot before 25 feet and f/11 will put everything from 12 feet (iii.65m) to infinity in focus.

Sunny xvi Exposure  –To finer shoot the Franka Solida (or whatsoever manual camera) you will need an auxiliary light meter or acquire to chief the Sunny xvi Rule. Sunny 16 was 2nd nature to photographers until the 1970s when internal calorie-free meters became a common in-camera feature. Even later on this technological advancement most film continued to be sold with a Sunny xvi guide inside the box.

The rule is simple; for a 100 ASA film you set your camera shutter to one/100, and for a bright sunny day the aperture setting is f/16, thus Sunny 16. For light clouds the setting is f/11, overcast skies f/8 and in shade f/5.half dozen. This works with any movie, just fix your shutter speed to friction match the film, and then use the same Sunny 16 Rule.

The rule is easy to understand, unproblematic and effective to utilise, and with experience can exist quite accurate equally man beings come installed with a low-cal meter (our optics). Modern films have much more exposure latitude every bit well, especially colour negative films, which makes the somewhat imprecise Sunny sixteen rule even more useful than in the past.

By combining Sunny 16 and the Snapshot setting y'all can take the camera set to grab a photo in just a few seconds. If you are carrying the camera effectually and intending to take photos, have the exposure pre-set to an EV setting that matches the light levels where y'all are. Shooting scenery? Then set to infinity. Shooting street photography? So use the Cerise Dot and f/11 and everything from 12 feet (iii.65m) to infinity volition be in focus.

Shutter Button – Unlike many 120 folders, all of the Franka cameras had the shutter release button on the right-mitt side, which gives you the ergonomics of a 35mm camera, just in medium format. The shutter has a screw for a soft release push button and can also be used with a shutter release cable.

Double-exposure prevention – My version of the Solida has a double exposure prevention mechanism. To take a shot the small indicator dot beside the film winding punch must be red to indicate "Ready'. Once yous have taken a shot this will modify to white indicating the prevention is in identify, and the shutter cannot exist fired until the next exposure is wound on. In practice this machinery can often be faulty, and many people remove it from the photographic camera and rely solely on the red window.

Finishing the ringlet – Once you take taken your terminal shot and then just keep advancing the movie with the film winding dial until you see the end of the film in the scarlet window. Again, open up the film door in subdued light, proceed a finger on the exposed film coil to stop it coming loose, roll the movie upwardly tightly and stick on the "exposed" film tag. When I get out shooting I accept a couple of vintage metal movie gyre holders which I place exposed rolls in. When I go home every bit an actress prevention I scroll my exposed rolls up in a minor slice of tinfoil before sending off to exist candy. Go back to Step 1 and repeat, as many times as necessary.

X Old School Photographer's Tricks

one: Primary the Sunny xvi rule

2: A lens hoods is your best friend. The lenses on vintage folders were commonly single-coated and prone to flaring. If you don't have a hood, avoid straight calorie-free hitting the front of the lens and utilise a lid, your hand, or the shadow of a edifice or tree to shade the lens. A great old-fashioned fox is to apply the lens folding door to cake the light by turning the camera upside down.

iii: Only advance the picture (via red window) after you accept opened the lens panel. A quick and forceful opening of the lens console causes the bellows to aggrandize to apace, sucking air from within the photographic camera and deteriorating the flatness of the film aeroplane which will affect the accuracy of focusing the epitome on the film. This process of gentle opening should exist followed when using all folding cameras.

iv: Using faster apertures such equally f/three.v – f/2.9 creates a very shallow Depth of Field and is harder to focus accurately. The sweet spot for 120 folders is f/eight to f/eleven. Only employ f/16 – f/22 when you need the deepest Depth of Field possible, every bit this likewise impacts optical resolution because of diffraction.

5: Simply change the shutter speed to the highest setting AFTER cocking the shutter.

half dozen: Avert leaving the shutter cocked for extended periods of time every bit this can weaken the shutter spring.

seven: For all-time shots follow the 1930s photographer's rule of fugitive backlit compositions. The goal back then was to always aim for Rembrandt style lighting, lite off to 1 side, in a higher place and behind. In the old days this was termed "keeping the sun over your shoulder".

8: 100 to 200 ASA films are best for 120 folders; because yous are shooting at slower speeds, acquire the sometime-fashioned methods of holding a camera steady to reduce any move.

9: String Tripod – this is a smashing trick that photographers used in the 1930s.

10: In low calorie-free always attempt to employ a tripod, cable release or a self-timer these will minimise photographic camera shake and produce sharper images.

Buying a Franka Solida

I own several 120 folders, including rare and expensive ones such as the Voigtlander 466, Konishiroku Pearl Four, and Exona, and feel really happy that I bought the Franka Solida II-R. No it's not a Zeiss Ikonta Four, but and so it has features that its more expensive cousins don't, such equally the capacity to shoot four×4 Super-Slides. All in all information technology's a lovely, solid camera with a very capable lens, and if y'all can observe a good one, buy information technology and spend a fleck getting it serviced.

Despite my love of 120 folders I have to exist objective and point out that they aren't a photographic camera for anybody. As I have pointed out in my previous articles, if you intend to shoot vintage cameras, I strongly propose you become them serviced before utilise. However, with cheaper models of the Franka that isn't really worthwhile, and then I would propose trying to buy one of the better models like mine, or the elevation of the range Solida IIIe.

The two biggest problems in one-time folding cameras is that the grease in the shutters seizes up over time, and the bellows fissure and often have pinholes. As far every bit the shutters, Franka used proficient quality shutters that are relatively elementary to service. Fortunately, Franka used leather bellows from the Kreher company, who were based in Dresden prior to WWII and in Bayreuth after the war. Kreher besides supplied the bellows for Voigtländer and Zeiss Oberkochen after the war, and yous can spot them by the double strips which run against the folding direction of the bellows. This is a big plus on any vintage folding camera every bit Kreher's bellows were the highest quality and are often in serviceable condition decades after their manufacture. If the bellows have deteriorated they must exist replaced, and unless you have the skills to do this yourself it can exist expensive. Having the superb Kreher bellows on a photographic camera more often than not ways this is less likely to be a problem.

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Source: https://casualphotophile.com/2020/11/25/franka-solida-ii-r/

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